Thursday, December 24th, 2009
Horse Hair Pottery
Horse Hair Pottery dates back many years and is credited to the Navajo. Some believe its origin was an accident when an Indian’s hair had been blown by the wind and attached itself to an item that had just come out of the firing pit. The Indian then, liking the effect, began applying hairs from their horse to their pieces.
This technique is very popular in Southwestern cultures and decor. Quite a few people have enshrined their favorite horses by having pottery made using their animal’s hair.
Basically, the process involves removing bisque from the firing while still hot (about 1300 degrees Fahrenheit) and carefully draping single strands of hair over and around the item. The horse hair will burn and shrivel up and will leave permanent imprints of its presence on the item.
To read more about how to make your own Horse Hair Pottery, click here.
Friday, October 16th, 2009
It doesn’t matter how much experience you have with ceramics, you are bound to have mistakes. Whether it be casting your rmolds, bisque or finished pieces, you can often turn those disasters into something useful.
This is first of a series of articles that will give you options for your ooopsies other than the trash barrel
Sometimes pieces collapse, or split with stress cracks during the casting process. No problem if you have a reclaimer, just toss the ware back into the recycling vat. But if you want to get really creative, try this:
To read the rest of this article, click here.
Monday, September 28th, 2009
The look of airbrushing on ceramics is age old. You can see its early effects on pieces like the ones done by Hull Pottery. The subtle gradation of shading cannot be matched by any other technique. There is simply no way to effect the gradual shading of hues from one color to the next with a brush.
The most important step to airbrushing on ceramic bodies is in the preparation of the surface. It is important that there be a smooth dust-free surface before applying glaze or any other airbrushed paint. Whether the piece be slip cast or hand built, attention should be given to remove all blemishes, seam lines, joinings/attachments, and all imperfections prior to firing the greenware piece to bisque stage. After the firing, the piece should be dusted off with a stiff brush, removing any remaining particles in the crevices or on the surface and then finally wiped down with a damp lint free cloth. Allow the piece to dry thoroughly before beginning to paint it. Airbrushing with underglazes is best done on greenware unless you are airbrushing over a matte glaze.
It is a good idea to apply a base coat of paint or glaze over the entire surface. This creates a sound foundation for the other glazes to rest upon. This base coat will blend with additional colors during the firing process. It is suggested that there be a strong base of white or cream for light clay bodies (normal ceramic). For dark clay bodies, a brown or gray base works best (colored stoneware, terra cotta, etc). Do not apply heavy layers because they may shift during the firing process and your colors will run.
Paints need to be thinned slightly when using an airbrush and you may need additional coats to get the effect you are seeking. You may want to practice on a few small items to get a feel for the amount needed for a smooth surface on the finished item when using glazes. You want a smooth glass-like finish. Too thin and the surface with be rough, too thick and the colors will run.
You can airbrush underglazes, glazes and non-fired stains and create beautiful works of art. As with all techniques, practice makes perfect. Make notes and keep trying, you will find it well worth the effort.
To read more about air brushing click here
Thursday, July 2nd, 2009
Not a “new” product, but one that may be new to you.
For an easy unfired marbleized finish on ceramic bisque or most any other item, you may want to give a try using Magic Dips.
Simply float specialized paints on surface of water and lower your piece into the surface, twisting your item as you submerge it.
Anyone, any age can make beautiful, decorative pieces.
Try combining this product and technique with other fired finishes and come up with some really spectacular designs. Use your imagination.
Have some pieces that did not quite turn out like you want or cannot be fixed? Just marbleize them, it will cover most any errors.
For more information on this product:
http://www.bcdservices.com/magicdip/store/commerce.cgi?next=42&cart_id=1246559281.54984&product=Individual_Colors
Friday, April 24th, 2009
Bubble painting has got to be one of the most fun and original techniques I’ve ever come across. Kids of all ages love it and so do adults. The technique works great with underglazes or stains.
To find out more about painting with bubbles, click here
Friday, January 30th, 2009
The technique known as Spatter Ware or Sponge Ware was developed in England early nineteenth century. It was a very popular technique for inexpensive pottery and ceramic ware. Even today, if you peruse the home interior and accent catalogs, you will see evidence of this technique in current decorating trends. The technique lends itself to most any decorating theme and though blue and brown was the most prevalent colors, modern day artists and decorators utilize a multitude of color choices.
The process is relatively simple and requires little skill. Color is applied in a web-like pattern using a sponge. Silk, or natural sponges work best as they have a coarser weave (pattern of holes). The artist can opt for all over application or selected areas. Though originally intended for use with glazed items, it can be modified for use on non-fired finishes.
To read the rest of this article, click here.