Arlen’s Icing is a relatively new product for working with ceramic canvas. Patterned after an old product and technique, this newer version is easier to handle and store. In a nutshell, it is a stand-up glaze used to pipe designs on both greenware and bisque and can even be used under and over unfired glazes and fired glazes. Below is comprehensive information regarding Arlene’s Icing and how to use it. CME wants to thank Arlene Smith for providing this information to share with ceramists around the world.
To see a project sheet using this product, check out Iced Poinsettia Vase
Icing Guidelines: This basic Icing guide has been developed to familiarize you with methods used in the application of “Arlene’s Icing”. These instructions are generic to many of the patterns and describe in detail some of the icing methods used in making ceramic pieces. General Information: INTRODUCTION Icing, also known as tube lining, was a popular method of ceramic decoration in early Victorian times. Primarily used for tile decoration, patterns were outlined using a handheld bladder or glass pipette filled with stand-up glaze. With our “Arlene’s Icing” product, icing can be applied to greenware and/or bisque and also under or over glaze. “Arlene’s Icing” is a versatile and flexible product containing a mixture of glaze ingredients, gums, stabilizers and deflocculated clays. It is presently available in either white or black and can be fired form cone 018 to cone 6 and anywhere in between. ABOUT “Arlene’s Icing” Original tube liners used liquid slip on leather-hard ware (wet ware). This is too inconvenient for most ceramists today. Our “Arlene’s Icing” was developed to adhere to both greenware and bisque. You can paint over it as soon as it dries (about 10 minutes) using commercial ceramicscolors without first firing and re-firing to set the “Arlene’s Icing”. It is stable for use on projects up to cone 6 and is therefore suitable for earthenware, stoneware and porcelain techniques which utilize these temperatures. You can also use it over already fired glaze and then re-fire. REMEMBER: “Arlene’s Icing” can be used at all stages—greenware or bisque—just ice, allow to set, paint and fire or ice, fire and paint. You can also add icing on top of color at any time before the final glaze firing. STORING THE “Arlene’s Icing” Do not refrigerate! Keep “Arlene’s Icing” at room temperature. The dry remains can be reactivated with water. Simply add water, stir and let set for 24 hours. EQUIPMENT Very little equipment is required to begin piping. We use small soft bottles with a metal tip. We market two size tips, small or large. Or we have a AirPen which can also be used for icing. Great if you are going to do lots of projects or very large projects. FILLING THE BOTTLES Using our funnel tipped bottle makes it easy to fill the small applicator bottles. The product thickens as it sits, but will thin by just shaking to bottle. If necessary open the lid and mix with brush handle. Once the small bottles filled you do not need to empty. As long as the lid is on tight the product will keep for months. Make sure to clean the tips out after each use. ICING INFORMATION The key to successful icing is in the manner the slip flows from the applicator bottle. Always pull lines from left to right. Squeeze the bottle between the thumb and first two fingers. The bottles are very flexible and should not take a lot of pressure. If it does the product maybe to thick. Hold the bottle with the tip in contact with the surface at an angle of 45 degrees. The tip should glide across the surface as you squeeze. The lower rim of the icing tip should stay in contact with the surface of the ware at all times while applying product. Wipe the tip frequently. Use your fingers or gently wipe the tip after almost every stroke. When not in use, place tip in a wet sponge this will keep the tip from clogging. REMEMBER: Do not push directly down on the tip. The piping will be forced back into the tip. HINTS: 1. Since most mixtures you are using will be semi viscous, it is important not to lift the tip from the surface while icing. Lifting will cause most mixtures to ‘glob’ on surface. 2. The hole at the end of the applicator tip is very small so you only have to squeeze a small amount for a thin line. 3. The line will increase in size depending on the amount of pressure used and the speed at which you move your hand while icing. 4. If the line breaks or splits, then you are moving too quickly or not squeezing enough. 5. If the mixture feels ‘tight’ , pop the tip and add a little water, stir and replace tip. 6. Work from left to right or tip to bottom. If you are left handed, work from right to left. 7. Turn your work frequently, support you ware properly on a soft towel or turntable. Remember that is easier to turn the ware than yourself. 8. To correct a piping mistake use a wipe out tool for convenience. When the icing is dry, a finger nail or scraper will probably do the trick. ICING ON GREENWARE: In order to use icing on greenware, it is necessary to condition the ware well by misting the surface with water in order to eliminate any dust particles which may keep the slip from sticking. You may wish to paint the surface with an engobe (underglaze, i.e. Duncan’s Cover-Coat) before icing, so that the iced lines will show up even more after painting and firing. Most engobes contain a high percentage of gum which assists the icing lines to stick to the surface. After transferring the design, condition the ware well by misting with water mister and proceed to pipe. Any failure to stick is invariably due to the very dry environment or moving air (due to fans) in the surrounding area. After icing on greenware, we recommend firing the piece before adding bisque color. ICING ON BISQUE: After transferring the design, condition the ware well by misting with water mister and proceed to ice. Any failure to stick on bisque is generally due to dust on the bisque, a dry environment or moving air in the surrounding area. If you experience this difficulty, try brushing a very thin coat of fritted engobe (ie Duncan Concepts) or satin glaze mixed with water (1:1) over surface of the area to be iced. You will still see the pattern clearly through this light glaze and it will not affect painting colors. Sometimes a very thick application on a surface that is too dry may cause the slip to crack.
For more information about this product, contact Arlene Smith at www.arlenedee.com